week 26

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Ik ben een modale eter. Niks speciaals, zeker geen ‘haute-cuisine’. Als ’t maar lekker is. En de sfeer aan tafel gezellig. Voor mensen als ik die gezelligheid boven hoog-culinaire ‘de kleren van de naakte keizer’ gerechten – als u begrijpt wat ik bedoel – stellen, heeft een recensie weinig nut. Ik behoor tot de culinaire barbaren, niet zo zeer van ‘wat de boer niet kent dat eet ie niet’, maar een lekkerbek die óók zijn portemonnee een beetje in de gaten wil houden. Meneer Michelin loopt de restaurants waar ik met de mijnen doorgaans kom, hautain voorbij.

Tóch vind ik het lezen van restaurantrecensies leuk. Veel kranten hebben lieden in dienst die d’r verstand van denken te hebben. Het in deze regio verschijnende dagblad heeft ook zo’n duo, dat op zaterdag zijn eetbevindingen met kennis en liefde – denk ik – spuit. Hun recensies lees ik, culinaire nitwit, meestal met belangstelling. Vooral als het – hoewel niet zo vaak – een etablissement betreft waar wij ook wel eens gegeten hebben en ook omdat ze hun kennelijke kennis altijd vergezeld laten gaan van prijzen à la ‘een plankje stokbrood (€ 4.50) met huisgemaakte kruidenboter met pesto’, om maar eens iets simpels te noemen. De duurdere gerechten worden uitgebreid en uiteraard met prijzen becommentarieerd. Nogmaals best leuk, hoewel ik bij hun consumptie van de bijpassende wijnen (à la € 28.50 per fles) soms denk: ‘Dat gaat dan mooi op kosten van de abonnee’. Maar ik wéét dat dit heel kleinzielig is. Ik ga er zonder meer van uit, dat het duo en hun begeleidend gezelschap – onder het motto hoe meer eters & drinkers, hoe meer oordelen en ook, waarom niet, vreugd – er steeds echt werk van maakt. En kennis van culinaire zaken heeft waar anderen, zelfs eetbarbaren, best een leidraad aan kunnen hebben.

In dit stukje zit van mijn kant ook een beetje verborgen ambitie. Want déze krant heeft (nog?) geen culinaire recensierubriek, hoewel daar, denk ik, toch best belangstelling voor is en er in deze regio veel goede restaurants zijn. Zou dat niets voor mij zijn, chef? Een rubriek ‘Van culinair barbaar tot haute cuisine-specialist’? Ik houd me aanbevolen. Maar ik hoor nu mijn baas al cynisch zeggen: ‘Ga jij maar mooi naar de snackbar.’ Ik pas mijn aanvankelijke doelstelling hier nu razendsnel naar beneden bij aan. Zouden in patatjes mayo, kroketjes en berelullen geen recensierubriek zitten?

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